Myth vs. Fact about your Chimney

Myth: "My oil burner chimney does not need to be cleaned."
Fact:  Exhaust from the heater, (soot), clings to the inside of the chimney which can cause rapid deterioration and backpuffs. Your chimney should be brushed regularly.

Myth:  "As long as I burn clean and hot, my chimney does not need cleaning."
Fact:  It is a good idea to have your chimney(s) inspected and/or cleaned yearly for safety purposes and "peace of mind".

Myth:  "My oil burner/gas company cleans my chimney along with my burner."
Fact:  Most service companies only clean debris at the bottom of the chimney - they do not brush it.

Myth:  "A chimney cap will block my draft."
Fact:  A cap will help eliminate downdraft and prevent birds and small animals from blocking a chimney with nesting

Question: What is the proper way to start a fire?

Answer: Building a fire in your fireplace or woodstove requires the use of tinder, kindling and firewood.  Remember, before actually lighting the fire, to check that the damper is fully open. The key to building a fire is to think small. Starting your fire requires the use of tinder and kindling. The tinder should easily ignite with a match and begin burning. It will then ignite the kindling followed by the larger logs. Newspaper makes good tinder. Good kindling would be small dry sticks and branches, the dryer the better. Kindling should not be more than an inch in diameter.

Two different methods are listed below for starting a fire in your fireplace or woodstove.

Conventional fire building - Arrange two small to medium size pieces of wood on the grate, about six inches apart. Place some newspaper (tinder) between them and then cover the tinder with several pieces of kindling. Don't skimp on the kindling as this is the most important part of starting the fire. Now put one or two more pieces of firewood  on top of the other logs. If you use two pieces, lay them at right angles to the first two. Be sure to leave enough space between them to allow good air circulation around the logs. Light the tinder and within minutes you will have a hot roaring fire.

Top down burn - Arrange three large, extremely dry logs in your firebox and place them up to six inches apart depending on firebox size. Place them in the fireplace the long way front to back to provide good airflow for complete combustion. Place three more pieces of dry wood that are slightly smaller across the tops of the larger pieces, log cabin style. Continue building this structure with increasingly smaller pieces of dry wood. The structure can rise until it is about two-thirds of the way to the top of your firebox. Aim for as many different sized levels as possible.  Important: The top half of the log pile should be made up of small, branch and twig sized pieces of dry wood. Top the pile with kindling or wood shavings. When the dry kindling and shavings catch, the fire will work its way down to the larger pieces if the wood is dry.

Whichever method you choose, follow these three steps before lighting your fire: Insure that the fireplace damper is open. Twist up a sheet of newspaper and light it, holding it just below the damper opening. This will allow heat to rise up the chimney quickly and establish a good draft. Once the smoke is being drawn up the chimney, slowly move the burning paper down and use it to ignite the kindling. As the logs burn, add more firewood as needed. In a fireplace, keep the top of the flames visible below the fireplace opening. In a woodstove, keep the flames confined to the woodstove itself. Flames roaring up into the chimney could start a chimney fire.

Commercial fire starters are also available and work well. They eliminate the need for tinder and reduce the amount of kindling required. These products are sold in small packets or blocks and ignite easily. Never use liquid fire starters indoors, (lighter fluid or other flammable liquids), as this is extremely dangerous.  At the end of the evening the fire should not be allowed to "smolder" out because this creates creosote buildup in the chimney. When you are through enjoying the fire, separate the logs by moving them to the side of the fireplace or standing them on end in the back of the fireplace.  Close the screen or glass doors tightly. This will reduce the amount of air flowing up the chimney while the damper is open. Do not close the damper until you are sure the fire and coals are completely out.

Question:  Why do I need a chimney cap?

Answer: A chimney without a cap is like a house without a roof.

Imagine how much water would come into your home during a rainstorm if you had a hole in your roof twelve inches square. Chimney flues can be even larger than that, so where does the water go? It runs down the chimney and seeps into the bricks and mortar, settling behind the firebricks. There is little air circulation in the chimney (unless you're using it) and no sunlight, so the inside of the chimney stays wet long after the rain stops. This moisture erodes the mortar joints and weakens the brick. Add to this a freeze/thaw cycle during the cold months, and you have all the needed ingredients for a deteriorating chimney.

Even though you can't see the damage happening, it's there, slowly deteriorating your beautiful fireplace and chimney. This is a particularly important consideration if you have a metal firebox incorporating a metal damper and smoke shelf. All fireplace dampers made of metal are subject to this deterioration as the water mixes with creosote and mild acids are formed. Even chimneys serving woodstoves are in need of a cover.

Question:  What is creosote?

Answer: Creosote is unburned wood particles and condensed flue gases which deposit in the chimney interior. This buildup should be removed regularly by a certified, insured chimney sweep.